Understanding Plumbing Basics for Bathtub Installation
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Setting up a bathtub isn't specifically rocket science, yet it does need strong plumbing, carpentry, and often, tiling skills. Replacing an old bath tub with a new one is additionally a moderately hard project. If the old tub is conveniently easily accessible, the task can move immediately; if you have to open a wall to get rid of the old bathtub and position the brand-new tub, the task is much harder. In either instance, the job is within a residence handyman's skills, although you will certainly require a helper to leave the old bathtub as well as embeded in the new one. Make certain you have certified on your own for the job as well as fit attempting it. Instead of employing a specialist to take over a halfway-completed job, it is better to consider employing one prior to you begin. Chances are you might require an expert plumber to make tube connections.
This write-up will help you mount a new bath tub in your shower room if you have currently purchased a brand-new tub and also don't require to change the setup of your previous water system pipelines.
Your tools and also material list need to make up the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you require to change old faucets with brand-new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you must do is detach the water. After doing so, activate the taps to drain pipes any type of water continuing to be in the system. The process of getting rid of the existing taps can be quite problematic due to the restricted accessibility that is typically the instance.
Make use of a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that connects the supply pipelines to the taps. Have a fabric ready for the remaining water that will come from the pipes. As soon as the supply pipelines have been eliminated, make use of the very same device to loosen the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will require to stop the solitary taps from transforming during this procedure. When the faucets have been gotten rid of, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleaned of any old sealing compound.
Prior to carrying on to fit the new faucets, compare the pipeline links on the old taps to the new faucets. If the old faucets are longer than the new taps, after that a shank adapter is required for the new taps to fit.
Suitable New Touches
If the tails of the new faucets are plastic, then you will need a plastic port to prevent damage to the string. One end of the adapter fits on the plastic tail of the tap as well as the various other end gives a connection to the current supply pipes.
If you need to fit a monobloc, after that you will need lowering couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipeline of the monobloc to the basic 15mm supply pipe.
Next off, place the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin making certain that the washers remain in location between the faucet as well as the sink. Protect the faucet in position with the producer provided backnut. When the tap is firmly in place, the supply pipelines can be linked to the tails of the faucets. The taps can either be attached by using corrugated copper piping or with regular tap adapters. The former kind should be linked to the faucet ends initially, tightening up only by hand. The supply pipelines can later on be connected to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have been connected.
Setting up the Bath tub
Using the two wooden boards under its feet, position the bath tub in the required position. The wooden boards are practical in equally spreading out the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards rather than focusing all the weight onto 4 small factors.
The next objective is to guarantee that the tub is leveled all round. This can be attained by examining the level and also adjusting the feet on the bath tub until the spirit level checks out degree.
To mount faucets, fit the bottom of the outermost versatile tap adapter to the proper supply pipe by making a compression sign up with; after that do the same for the various other tap.
Activate the water system and examine all joints and brand-new pipework for leaks as well as tighten them if necessary. Fill up the bathtub and additionally check the overflow outlet and also the normal electrical outlet for leakages.
Finally, deal with the bath paneling as explained in the supplier's instruction manual. Tiling as well as securing around the bathtub ought to wait till the bath tub has been utilized a minimum of when as this will certainly resolve it into its final setting.
Getting ready for the Installment
To start with, the supporting frame supplied with the bath ought to be fitted (if required) according to the producer's directions. Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bath tub. When fitting the faucet block, it is essential to make certain that if the faucet includes a plastic washing machine, it is fitted between the bathroom and the taps. On a plastic bath, it is also practical to fit a supporting plate under the taps device to stop strain on the bathtub.
Fit the flexible faucet adapters to the bottom of the two faucets utilizing 2 nuts and also olives (often supplied with the tub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and afterwards pass the outlet with the hole in the bathroom. Use the nut supplied by the maker to fit the plug-hole. Check out the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.
Next, fit completion of the adaptable overflow pipeline to the overflow electrical outlet. Afterwards, screw the pipeline to the overflow face which should be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you use all of the supplied washers.
Connect the catch to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the bath tub by winding the string of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, as well as screw on the trap to the electrical outlet. Attach all-time low of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bathroom must now be ready to be fitted in its last placement.
Tiling Around the Bath tub
In the area where the bath meets the tile, it is necessary to secure the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is essential as the fitting can move sufficient to split a rigid seal, causing the water to pass through the wall in between the bathroom and the tiling, resulting in issues with wetness as well as possible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can select from a range of coloured sealers to blend in your fixtures and also fittings. They are marketed in tubes and also cartridges, and also are capable of securing voids up to a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger space to fill up, you can load it with spins of drenched paper or soft rope. Bear in mind to constantly load the bath tub with water prior to securing, to permit the activity experienced when the bathtub remains in use. The sealant can break fairly early if you do not consider this movement prior to securing.
Additionally, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be used to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and reduce to size, are also conveniently offered on the market. It is suggested to fit the ceramic tiles using waterproof or water-proof sticky and cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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